Many patterns enclosed in magazines have been preserved in addition to the diagrams and numerous books produced for both home and professional dressmakers which throw light on the way in which patterns were assembled. Paper patterns had been included in magazines in England and France from the 1830s onwards, but the big paper pattern companies where founded in America, where the sewing machine had been invented.
They were clearly not intended for use when you were pruning the hedge and wearing kid gloves was the sartorial equivalent of pale white skin, that is, it indicated that the wearer was rich enough to indulge in a life of genteel indoor idleness.
At that time, kid gloves were viewed as rather ostentatious and only suitable for the nouveau riche - much as heavy gold chains might be viewed today.
The Preston Chronicle included this item in February 1837: Mr. Long Wellesley is, also, a man of excellent taste, though he rides in kid gloves, which Brummel used to say a man should be scouted [dismissed scornfully] for doing.
The dismissal of the gloves by the socialite and fashion authority Beau Brummell was enough to send them to the back of the 19th century chav wardrobe.
During the 17th and early 18th century gloves were cut out in factories and sent out to nearby villages. There they would be sewn together by hand with the aid of a piece of apparatus called a ''Glover's Donkey'' The completed gloves were then returned to the factory for distribution. The princely sum of 5/- for one dozen pairs was paid for the great deal of sewing involved – each glove taking three hours to make.
Hannah wrote:Oh, I am not. I gather I ought to be? /goes to look at that post!
ETA: Also, as far as I can tell, there is not any such thing as a triple-pleated mushroom collar :'D That or it was so unpopular and lost to obscurity that all non-Bright Star-related references to it have been, idk, squished out of Google entirely, or something. I can find no reference to it that is not a quote from the film. Of course, possibly I am not looking in the correct places ...
Usefulbeauty wrote:To delve further into the mystery of the mushroom collar, I recall looking up something about Regency chemisettes, which led to a forum where a girl was asking for help because the pattern she was using to make her chemisette called for a mushroom pleated collar and she needed to know what one was and how you could make it. The only response she got was something along the lines of, "I don't know how you sew it, but there's one in Bright Star."
So perhaps it really is just a super obscure thing?
ETA: Here's the link to the forum I was talking about. I have yet to check out the link she provided (for someone's blog with the pattern on) because I'm a wee bit nervous about clicking links to obscure blogs, but from the images lower down on the page, it looks like she figured out how to mushroom pleat things. Or at least, how to make it look pretty much like the Bright Star collar.
MmeBahorel wrote:I'm getting hits for "mushroom collar" from the 1920s and 1930s on Google Books - nothing earlier that relates to fashion. Which is sort of implying to me that they made it up, because surely a mushroom collar would be mentioned prior to 1927. The bragging rights seem likely to me to come from the difficulty of making the shape, not of the shape in a particular colour. The colour shouldn't matter.
So did the writers/designers gack something from about a hundred years too late? Or at least a term from about a hundred years too late?
A white cambric chemisette with three mushroom pleated frills forming the collar. These frills are made of strips of cambric cut on the straight grain, 1 1/2" deep at the centre front widening to 2 1/4" at the centre back and 90" long. They are mushroom pleated onto 1/16" wide tapes and then stitched to the neck band which is a crossway piece 15 3/4" long. The top frill is right on the edge of the band and the bottom one is almost on the neck seam.
An 18" long tape [36" full width] is attached at the centre back and passes through the hems to tie at the centre front.
Make small tucks on the shoulder to fit the back.
The neck fastens with 1/16" cords 9" long.
Aurelia Combeferre wrote:Another thought:
Cosette wore over a petticoat of white taffeta, her robe of Binche guipure, a veil of English point, a necklace of fine pearls, a wreath of orange flowers; all this was white, and, from the midst of that whiteness she beamed forth. It was an exquisite candor expanding and becoming transfigured in the light. One would have pronounced her a virgin on the point of turning into a goddess.
So I imagine that this is one of those pelisse style dresses, or one with a similar sort of mantle? And the white wedding dress was not yet de rigeure, wasn't it?
Wigs were almost always made of human hair, however, while the false hair cap is made of dark brown silk thread masquerading as human hair. Silk threads are twisted together to imitate human hair and then manipulated into a “fabric” of interconnected loops that formed the cap, following the lines of the wearer’s head. The front of the cap would have framed the wearer’s face, dipping down on the sides to cover her ears and form two sets of three ringlets. As far as objects go, this one is pretty obscure—we’ve only ever heard of three similar objects in other museums and don’t have any historical records for them.
While not full enough to replace an entire head of hair, the loops that formed the “scalp” served to cover limited hair loss, while the ringlets at the neck added stylish volume for hair too short, brittle, or thin to curl into the popular styles of the day. Popular hair styles in the mid 19th century required ringlets peaking coyly out from beneath fabric caps and bonnets, and the false hair cap could provide those curls for women who lacked them naturally.
A unique 1830’s false front hair piece that comes in its original box. The hairpiece war worn by Mrs. Warren Birds. Her name and information on how she wore it is written on the bottom of the box. According to the note the piece was worn with a day cap and a large bonnet of the time period. The light brown hair has an auburn tinge. It is attached to netting and has a tie back closure. The hair piece is in very good condition. There is some breakage on the box cover and some age spotting. A very unique item to add to your collection.
Like men, women added false hair to achieve certain styles. Hairpieces to enhance a hairstyle or cover thinning hair were common among women who could afford them. A hairpiece called an Apollo knot, worn during the late regency periods, was styled into coils, loops, or braids, then placed on a wire frame that made it stand high on the head.
Aurelia Combeferre wrote:
Interesting choice of thread versus false hair; but wouldn't that be easier to spot from up close?
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