Col.Despard wrote:Having one of those moments...
Just looking at this photo of Robert Cornelius, in the first known photo taken in North America:
http://www.georgianlondon.com/in-the-ey ... th-century
1839...a mere 7 years after the Barricades. The sense of connection in looking at a man in a photo so far removed from us in time is extraordinary. The blogger's comments are spot on.
Usefulbeauty wrote:It was also fun to type up my information on the styles of the time, which basically was "SLEEVES HAIR EXTRAVAGANCE all a reaction against the simple styles of the Regency ALSO MEN WORE CORSETS."
A chemise was the closest garment to the skin--worn to protect your stays from perspiration and your skin from being pinched by the stay’s laces. Rich and poor alike owned chemises, and would have worn them to bed as well as during the day.
A chemise is very easy to make, but time consuming because of the flat-felled seams. (The seam allowance is folded over and sewn to the inside of the garment to avoid rough edges.)
To make this I used Past Patterns 002.
Rather than the heavily boned stays you might think of, stays (later known as corsets) from the 1830’s were stiffened with cord. They would also have a busk down the front--a strip of wood about the size of a ruler, to keep the stays straight.
Before the invention of the hoop in the 1850’s, women would have worn up to six petticoats to obtain the fashionable silhouette.
A petticoat is constructed by sewing two to four panels of fabric together and then gathering, pleating, or gauging the petticoat to a waistband.
This petticoat has been gauged (now known as cartridge pleated). Gauging is a period-correct method in which two rows of running stitches are sewn along the top of the petticoat, drawn up to fit the waistband, and pinned to it. Then each individual pleat is sewn to the waistband.
A corded petticoat was vital for getting the right shape. It is a normal petticoat with cords sewn around the circumference which help hold the skirts out when starched. They were also helpful in keeping numerous petticoats from tangling around your legs.
Originally, petticoats had the cords woven into them, but sandwiching them between another panel of fabric is a good alternative.
On this petticoat the cords go a bit past the knee, but some extant petticoats have shown cords that go all the way up to the hips.
Pockets were made up separately from dresses, and then tied around the waist and reached by a slit in the side of the dress. They were usually embroidered. The embroidery done on this pocket was based off an original pattern.
A Bit of History
The silhouette of the early 1800’s is easily recognizable to most people: the simple, empire waist style of dress has been made popular by movie versions of Jane Austen’s books. Most people are also familiar with the hoop skirts of the 1860’s. Much thought isn’t given to the 1830’s until it’s pointed out to you.
It was a period of transition between the skinny shape of the Regency period to the wide skirts of the Civil War. And somewhere along the line, those sleeves happened.
This is known as the Romantic Era in fashion as well as in literature, when the famous English Romantics were publishing poetry and Victor Hugo’s infamous Hernani was causing riots at theaters. The style of writing was extravagant and so was the style of fashion.
Hairstyles in the Romantic Era are a bit startling. There are only two theories I’ve had on how they did that to their hair: one, all lady’s maids were taught by wizards, or two, they cheated.
Sadly, the first theory isn’t the true one. “False plaits” would often be used to make the many loops and braids on the back of the head, and “hair rats” would help to get the impossibly high piles of curls on the sides. (Hair rats aren’t quite as terrible as they sound. They’re small pads of hair, collected from your hairbrush, and covered in netting. Ladies would pin them to their heads and cover them with their hair in order to get the proper volume.)
The most popular method of curling hair was with paper curlers--a technique similar to rag curling.
A word on clothing:
In Provence, Languedoc, Vivarais, Dauphiné, Béarn, Roussillon the round, short jacket was the fashion; in the North, it was the coat, the frock coat, at least on Sundays. I'm not talking about special costumes, which are sometimes original or bizarre, that are worn in some regions.
Compagnons on Sundays are dressed in frock coat or coat. During the week they wear, some a jacket, the greatest number a tailcoat; the blouse never : it did not take form, for workers, until 1830, after the July Revolution.
The blouse, that is so celebrated today, covers the trousers, the jacket, the waistcoat, the shirt of the worker, and it invites, by its form, neglect of all that can't be seen, uncleanliness. The blouse was worn by farmers, carters, not by artisans. I don't think, whatever is said about it, that this article of clothing, nearly always of somber colour, could be favourable to them, in cities above all, and above all when they work in shirtsleeves, that it's no use to them in the workshop, and that it's simply their habitual costume in the street.
See, at the end of the day, principally in the capital, these workers go before their wives, or their partners (? common law wives? [prétendues]), or their mistresses who just ended their work, and the moment after to bring them back, giving them their arms : their heads are covered by a cap, their bodies with the blue blouse on which varnish, glue, oil, other substance have made their imprint; one can only see these two objects of all their clothing, and a little of the bottom of the trousers.
Their companions have only a little white cap, a calico [indienne] dress , a light fichu, several cheap trinkets; and yet they are charming : their aspect pleases the eye makes the heart rejoice. But the men are far from having the same cleanliness, the same elegance.... The couples appear badly matched; one couldn't believe the man and woman are of the same class, of the same condition. Where does this come from? From the blouse, somber blouse, ill-kept blouse, filthy blouse, and which, far from having ennobled the worker, as they sing of it in all tunes, has degraded his physique without elevating his morals.
I don't proscribe the blouse; it is useful to certain professions; but I say that the workers of the cities, in the majorities of industries, are ill served by it; that it makes them a class apart, that it subordinates them, and that often one is far, very far from suspecting what is under it of thought, of sentiment, of generosity, of the good and of the great : I know the impression it makes on certain people, even on people who call themselves our friends, and who are that, perhaps.
Hannah wrote:Oh god XD
SOMEONE was totally making that in some form in the 1830s though you just know it
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